Sunday 1 December: Onkojima

 We are sad to say goodbye to Onguma which means “the place you won’t want to leave”. Back on the road it soon becomes tarmac and eventually much more busy with traffic and trucks. We even have to overtake. It is much greener and more lush and there are farms and small villages near the road. We stop in Otjiwarongo after about 4 hours to refuel and look around the busy supermarket. Not that we buy anything. It feels crowded and strangely a bit claustrophobic. Another 30 minutes and we head off into the bushland again in to the Okonjima reserve. We have been moved to the Bush Suite ( as an upgrade but essentially because the chalets are full!) It is a separate house that sleeps 4 with private pool and facilities and redefines luxury! Probably a bit wasted for one night and we have to drive to the main resort for meals so a bit frustrating but the pool is lovely and we have total privacy to enjoy the views of the waterhole. At 4pm we head off to track a leopard. It is part of the AfriCat conservation organisation and some of the leopards are tagged so they can be tracked for research (and tourism!) It feels a bit like cheating but we would not have seen her otherwise. Sheltering from the sun under a bush we have to drive through thickets to get near. So thick that we get a puncture from a thorn stick and the guide has to change a wheel! Leopards are solitary. It is exciting to find she has made a kill and dragged a baby Red Hartebeest up a tree where we are able to watch her eat! Photos obviously do not do this justice! We also see Sable Antelopes introduced from South Africa and lots of giraffes with babies. Back for supper at the lodge accompanied by the loud cacophony of bull frogs in the pond.