Monday 25 November: to Twyfelfontein

 We are driven back along the coast via shipwrecks and rusting fuselage of crashed planes to Mowe Bay where we visit an amazing colony of Cape Fur Seals. There are hundreds of them: males, females and little babies. The noise and smell is memorable too. Back in our car the off road return journey to Torra Bay seems much easier than in the way here. We are not so tired at least. Again the stunning scenery is atmospheric and colourful and we drive through white salt dust blowing across the road. Once inland the scenery changes to terracotta rocks and flat topped mountains and it is much more green. We pass the start of the Veterinary Fence that separated North and South Namibia. Initially erected by the Germans to protect cattle in the south from foot and mouth disease it has more latterly come to represent colonialism and apartheid. We spot a giraffe far away and more elephant poo. But no elephants. Our lodge, Camp Kipri nestles in a cluster of terracotta boulders in which individual chalets have been built. We have an outdoor loo and shower and a private deck. Drinks overlooking the desert plains at sunset before supper.